Maple Sugarin' In Vermont: A Sweet History by Betty Ann Lockhart is a perfect fair-weather read for the Vermont history buff, but has hidden gems for all.
With a tone that toggles between history text and folktale, Maple Sugarin' In Vermont: A Sweet History by Betty Ann Lockhart traces the story of Vermont Maple from the early recorded history of colonization to the middle of the 20th Century.
Although there are some unfortunate moments---such as the author's reopening of the closed case as to who discovered maple---and despite the all-but-inevitable dryness of some of the weedy historical material, the book nevertheless left this reader hoping that Ms. Lockhart was well into her work on a sequel. Please, Ms. Lockhart, for your next book, take us into the contemporary era of Vermont maple, with attention to the back-to-the-land and organic food movements, the incredible recent industry consolidation, run-ins with labeling authorities, and (yes, selfishly) the backyard sugarmaking revolution currently underway among young people here!
Maple Sugarin' is organized chronologically as much as it is thematically and opens with the Abenaki and early settlers. Ms. Lockhart's treatment of the early recorded history of maple sugaring in Vermont is disappointing only in its suggestion that scholars are still at odds as to whether settlers from lands with no sugaring tradition could possibly have taught peoples having logged (tens?) of thousands of years in sugar country how to produce sugar from the maple tree. (For, surely that argument was satisfactorily dispatched by the prior scholarship of Helen Nearing in The Maple Sugar Book.) Nevertheless, these first chapters contain some gems; the story Lockhart tells of early sugar making is well illustrated both by words and by photographs of authentic and reproduction tools and equipment used by the first Vermont sugar makers. The rudimentary nature of early methods will impress any modern sugar maker with just how easy we have it!
After deftly weaving a tale of the advent of the 1791 sugaring season in with the story of Vermont becoming the fourteenth state of the Union (both occurred on March 4th of that year), Lockhart turns in Chapters 3 through 7 to Vermont sugarmaking as it existed in the early days of the Union through the Civil War. With entire chapters devoted to Thomas Jefferson's first exposure to Vermont maple (and subsequent failure to bring maple to Monticello) and the role consumption of maple sugar played in the Vermont abolition movement, Lockhart nevertheless pays scrupulous attention as well to advances in equipment and methods during this time, bringing us from wooden buckets and spiles and kettle systems to the advent of the evaporator, the sugar house, and all-things metal (even metal tubing---an experiment that would fail and keep on failing until its eventual demise in the 20th Century).
The balance of the book chronicles the rise of the Vermont maple industry through the middle of the 20th Century. According to Lockhart, the turn of the 20th Century is about when syrup starts surpassing sugar as the maple crop of choice. Ironically, it is also when Vermont producers start getting organized through the Vermont Maple "Sugar" Makers Association, and otherwise, to advocate for the protection and promotion of their crop. Lockhart goes on to detail the contributions of such notables as George C. Cary ("The Maple King") and the Proctor family. A reader's reward for making it through the dry-but-important subsequent exploration of the legal and regulatory environment of the era are the absolute gems at the end. Chapter 13 contains entertaining tales of and by actual Vermont sugarmakers, and Chapter 15 a primer on odd tools of the trade that will pique the interest of any peruser of antiques. The book ends, as any book on maple probably should, with recipes---these ones a bit basic but purporting to be authentic to old Vermont.
Any maple history enthusiast will find value in reading this thorough and, at times, supremely entertaining book. Widely available online and orderable at your local bookstore, if you or someone you know loves all things maple, give Betty Ann Lockhart's Maple Sugarin' In Vermont; A Sweet History a read one of these days!
The Sapling Evaporator is engineered for maximum backyard efficiency!
Last year, a prospective customer named Tom emailed me with the following question: “I love your maple syrup evaporators. But, without being a jerk, why should I spend $895 on a Sapling when some guy is selling a homemade barrel evaporator for $300 on Craig’s List? What’s the difference?”
I corresponded with Tom for a few days. And I can assure you that he is most definitely not a jerk. Not only that, but his question is a very, very good one! So, without being a jerk, here’s what I told him:
First, the Sapling is engineered for maximum backyard efficiency. Although the Sapling is simply designed, it is engineered especially for sugaring, and has some of the advanced features of more expensive evaporators. Most importantly, the Sapling’s stainless pan is baffled, which allows it to operate as a continuous-flow evaporator. Continuous-flow evaporation merits a blogpost in itself, but suffice it to say that this configuration allows syrup to be drawn off and sap to be added without emptying the pan. The continuous flow is more efficient than boiling off sap in batches, or pouring the boil from pan-to-pan.
I've talked to a LOT of people who have used the kids of homemade barrel evaporators Tom is talking about. Typically, those evaporators use a cast-iron, barrel-stove kit and hotel pans, both widely available items, to convert the barrel to an evaporator. The barrel-stove door does not have as much space for air intake as the Sapling’s specially engineered door does (making it harder to keep temperatures optimal for sugaring), the legs are shorter (requiring more bending on your part), the exit pipe comes out of the top of the unit rather than the back of the unit (leaving less surface area for boiling, which means slower evaporation) and, MOST importantly, the pan(s) are not baffled, meaning that you have to batch your boil, or pour from pan-to-pan, instead of doing a continuous-flow boil. From the (literally hundreds of) conversations I've had, I'd say that the Sapling, which boils at anywhere from 4 to 8 gallons of sap off per hour, depending on conditions, is easily twice as efficient as a comparably-sized batch operation.
Second, we stand by our Saplings, which are built to last. Our Saplings are coated with a high-temperature powder coating that is both durable and clean for the environment. And, all fasteners and hardware on the exterior of the Sapling are either powder coated or made of stainless steel. Homemade barrel evaporators probably don't have stainless fasteners, typically have cast iron pieces that rust, and are not at all likely to be powder coated.
We are a going concern, and are in this business for the long haul. Our reputation is important to us, and we support our customers whether they are happy with our products or not. (So far, so good!) That homemade barrel evaporator guy may not be as responsive to your requests for customer service as we will be. Take Tom, for example. He asked a question, and got an essay!
Third, the Sapling is multifunctional and can be accessorized. The Sapling is not just an evaporator! Each unit comes standard with grates that convert the Sapling into a wood-fired grill. And now, with the purchase of the Sapling Smoking Package, the Sapling can be a smoker too! Soon, a Sapling-shaped heavy-duty cloth cover (like a grill cover) will be available for purchase, and we hope to launch a warming pan that will fit neatly on the back of the Sapling in time for next sugaring season. The Sapling is unique among all evaporators for its multifunctionality; the current and future availability of Sapling accessories sets it apart from homemade units of all kinds.
Fourth, the Sapling was built with safety and the environment in mind. This is my last-but-not-least point. Saplings start as new, unlined, unpainted steel. They are assembled, media-blasted, powder-coated and outfitted with a stainless evaporation pan bearing lead-free welds and a lead-free pour-off valve. Our operations are so environmentally responsible they require no permitting.
As far as we are aware, homemade barrel evaporators are made with barrels that have been used, lined, and/or painted. Such barrels are widely available at little or no cost. When we were in our R&D phase, we started with used, painted barrels too. We learned quickly that this would be a mistake in production.
To start, in order to put high-quality, high-temperature paint on used barrels, you have to clean off the old paint, which is not suitable for high-temperatures. Otherwise, the old paint will peel off right under the new paint on the first burn. This is extremely difficult, dirty, and time-intensive work that we suspect lower-cost barrel evaporator makers do not engage in. Unfortunately, many people who have made their own evaporators have reported to us that they burned the old paint off before applying the new paint. We do not know whether homemade barrel makers engage in this environmentally suspect practice, but we most-certainly do not.
Even as we were bemoaning the work involved in rehabbing an old barrel, someone was mistaken (or less than honest) about what had been in one of the used barrels we purchased and we had a health and environmental issue on our hands the moment we opened it up. We handled it responsibly, and everything turned out fine, but it put us off used barrels for good. Now, we doubt whether anyone would work on and sell to you a barrel that smelled as bad as this one did, but nevertheless, we feel REALLY good about being able to tell people that we use new, unused, unlined, unpainted barrels to make our Saplings. You do not know where that used barrel has been! And we are not messing around with safety!
Last time I talked to Tom, he was still thinking about whether to become a customer, but I appreciated his inspirational question so much that I offered him a free Sapling Cover if he came our way. So take this as a not-so-subtle hint, readers. Send me your thoughts!
And thanks, Tom!
Like shiny things? This season's Sapling Evaporator, in stock now, is a classic, flat black with stainless evaporator pan and accents. Making maple syrup in your backyard has never been this easy OR attractive!
You are seriously thinking about buying a Sapling Evaporator, but you have a few questions. Chances are, the answers are below!
What's the lead-time on a Sapling Evaporator?
None! Our stock is holding out well, and we're busy manufacturing more at a good clip. We work every day during the season, so orders are generally shipped or made available for pickup the next business day after an order is placed.
How does the Sapling Evaporator ship?
The Sapling ships in a big box via UPS.
How long does it take to ship a Sapling to zipcode _ _ _ _ _?
UPS estimates place all of sugar country within one to three days of us. except for the farthest reaches of Maine, New England destinations are one day away, as are eastern and central New York. Western New York and the New York City area, as well as Pennsylvania, Ohio, West Virginia New Jersey, Delaware and Maryland are two-day destinations. It takes three days to get a Sapling to Kentucky, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, Wisconsin, Minnesota and Iowa.
How much does it cost to ship a Sapling to zipcode _ _ _ _ _?
We ship Saplings anywhere in the U.S. for $150, flat.
May I come pick up my Sapling instead?
Sure thing! You can pick up your Sapling, by appointment, for free!
When may I pick up my Sapling?
Our facility is generally open for pickups-by-appointment from 9-5 during the week. If that doesn't work for you, we'll find a weekend time that does. Shortly after you place your order, we will be in touch with you to schedule a pickup. Rushing is not the Vermont way. As such, we're happy to hold your Sapling for you while you plan your trip to Montpelier, an excellent day-trip destination (activity and restaurant recommendations available upon request)!
What is the best way to place my order?
Online! And thanks for asking. We're a small operation, so placing your order on our website helps us stay organized and avoid mistakes.
How many taps will the Sapling handle?
We recommend the Sapling for operations ranging from 5-50 taps for customers who anticipate saving sap up for occasional boils (e.g., weekends or days off from work). Customers who are able to boil whenever the sap flows should be able to handle up to 100 taps. The Sapling is not recommended for operations bigger than 100 taps.
How many gallons per hour can I evaporate on the Sapling?
We have measured everything from 4 to 8 gallons of evaporation per hour on our Sapling. The speed of your boil will depend on many things, including: the temperature outside, whether it is precipitating, the heat of your fire, your level of attention and skill and whether you are using the Sapling Warming Pan or other warming situation of your own invention.
Does the Sapling come assembled?
Almost completely! All new Sapling owners must install the stack and ball valve. That involves six self-tapping screws, pipe tape (provided) and opposable thumbs (BYO). Saplings that are shipped will also need to have their legs attached with the bolts, nuts and lock washers provided. Directions come with and are also here.
What tools should I have on hand for assembly?
A power-drill with Philips-head attachment installed should do it. A note for the apocalypse: it is possible to assemble a Sapling with nothing but a Philips-head screwdriver, but it's not fun. Self-tapping screws don't require drilling---although some folks prefer to pre-drill---but do pair well with power tools.
Is the Sapling portable?
Yes! The Sapling is light enough for one or two people to move it around easily (see below) and even comes with threaded holes on each foot for the intrepid customer who wishes to install casters for locomotion around easy terrain. (Hint: get the ones with breaks - you need to be able to level your unit).
How heavy is the Sapling?
All assembled, the Sapling is about 90 lbs. The heaviest part (the barrel with legs and door installed) is about 50 lbs.
What are the dimensions of the Sapling?
People usually ask because they are wondering if it will fit in their car. The answer is yes! We once fit a Sapling Evaporator in a Toyota Corolla! (We had to take it apart.) The partially-assembled Sapling will fit in any SUV or truck bed.
The Sapling ships in a box that is 38 x 25 x 27 (L x W x H). With legs at pickup, it's about 33 x 23 x 29 (L x W x H).
If you need more detail than this because you are installing your Sapling in an outbuilding, please be in touch!
What kind of outfitting does the Sapling require?
Besides sap, the only thing you absolutely need to bring to your Sapling is an inch or two of sand or ash to be placed on the bottom of your barrel (to protect the metal from the hottest part of your fire).
Should I firebrick my Sapling?
This is a matter of personal choice. The benefits are heat retention and added protection for your barrel. The downside is a smaller firebox. There is such a thing as half-brick, which basically splits the difference. If you are curious about how to lay your brick in your barrel, you can watch us do it here.
Can I install my Sapling in a sugar house?
Provided you consult your local fire warden and do it safely, yes! While the Sapling was designed for outdoor use, we have many customers who have installed their Saplings inside a shack or other outbuilding.
What kind of wood should I burn in the Sapling?
Opinions vary about what kind of wood is best, but the truth is that most people just burn what is available at little or no cost. We like a mixture of hard and soft, ourselves. Your wood should be split a time or two more than you would split it for use in your wood stove so that it about the width of your arm. Best to keep the lengths to two feet or below.
How much wood do I need?
It's a hard question to answer without knowing what kind of wood you are burning, but, by way of a ballpark, we suggest 1/2 cord of wood per every 5 gallons of syrup produced.
I don't have that much; where can I find inexpensive wood?
Check with a local hardware store or lumber mill. Very often, outfits that sell lumber will have or know where you can get inexpensive wood called "slag" wood - the bark edges of trees cut for lumber. You can also use old pallets, clean construction extras, or dry fallen wood. For a complete discussion on sugar wood, go here.
Can I get to finished syrup on the Sapling or will I need to finish on a separate pan?
While the experienced and the brave make it to finished syrup on the Sapling, most of us amateur sugar makers pour-off when we are very close (for us, it's usually about 2:1), and reduce the rest of the way on propane nearby or inside on the kitchen stove.
At Vermont Evaporator Company, all our hobby maple-sugar-makers feature "baffled" or "continuous flow" pans, because it makes sugaring more efficient, even in the backyard. But why?
You know what a continuous-flow pan is, but do you know why it's better for sugaring than a flat pan?
To address this question, I asked Expert-of-Sorts, Andy Boutin, General Manager of Pellergy, and, conveniently, co-lessor of 157 Pioneer Center, Suite 1. As Andy was moving stuff around our shared warehouse, I shouted questions at him, and he shouted back, pausing every once in a while to draw me a diagram. Here’s how our high-volume conversation went:
Kate: People want to know why continuous-flow evaporators are more efficient than evaporating on a flat pan. I gather the answer lies in understanding a principle of physics called a “gradient.” I’m trying to figure out what a gradient is, what it has to do with sugaring, and how a continuous-flow evaporator exploits that principle to make more syrup in less time. Can you help?
Kate: Wait. What did you study again?
Andy: Marine Engineering and Naval Architecture.
Kate: Hmm. But that involved a lot of Physics classes, right?
Andy: Yes. There’s a lot of fluid dynamics in that education, with ships and man submersibles traveling through water at different densities. It’s relatable.
Kate: Sold! Why is a continuous-flow pan better for sugaring than a flat pan and what does it have to do with the “gradient.” According to Lord Google, gradient is defined as “an increase or decrease in the magnitude of a property (e.g., temperature, pressure, or concentration) observed in passing from one point or moment to another.” What does that have to do with the price of syrup?
Andy: Lord Google is correct, of course, but that's not how I would explain it. Let’s back up.
Gradient is “physics” for as you move through space or time, something that can be measured changes gradually over the course of that distance. So, on a hot summer day, in a house with no internal doors (or doors that are open), if you climb the stairs from the basement to the first floor, the first floor to the second floor, and the second floor to the attic, you travel through a temperature gradient. A gradient is a gentle slope, not a cliff, and is not the result of a physical barrier. So, when, on that same hot summer day, you cross the street and open a door to a nice, cool, air-conditioned house, you are not travelling through a temperature gradient – the change is not gradual and is the result of a physical barrier.
There are a number of gradients at play when sugaring, but probably the most important one for purposes of this discussion is the density gradient that results from changes in sugar concentration as water evaporates and sap turns to syrup.
Kate: OK, I’m with you. Are there density gradients no matter how you sugar?
Andy: Yes. But they don’t operate the same way in every pan. Envision a flat pan the same dimensions as the Sapling Evaporator Pan---20” x 30”---but with no baffles. Think about the pathway from sap to syrup in that pan. Put the sap in. Start the fire. Water boils off. You add more sap. Now you have a density gradient: the denser liquid is at the bottom of the pan and the less-dense liquid is at the top of the pan. Every time you add sap, that density gradient forms (and, by the way, you kill your boil). So you have to keep boiling and boiling until the entire pan is the same density, and then you draw it all off. That’s the batch process. The gradient works against you, not for you, when you batch.
The concentration gradient works FOR you in a continuous-flow pan, both in terms of efficiency and quality. Now take the actual Sapling Evaporator Pan---20” x 30” with two baffles---and what you have is a pan that operates as if it is a 10” x 60” pan, squashed over the firebox. Now: put the sap in, start the fire, water boils off, you add more sap to one end of the pan only, and you’ve rearranged the gradient into a flowing river, where the less dense liquid pushes the denser liquid toward the pour-off, instead of a stagnant pond with muck settling at the bottom.
Kate: That’s quite a visual. Thanks. And there are efficiency gains as well as quality gains, you say?
Andy: Yes. In the flat pan, the gradient is only as long as the pan is deep, with a baffled pan, the gradient is as long as the different channels all stretched out. The efficiency is in the continuous flow that the latter gradient arrangement allows for – there’s no time-killing start and stop to your boil. The quality gains are that when you do draw off, you are able to take off only one density of syrup, even while other densities exist in the pan simultaneously.
Kate: One last question. Is it just me, or when you Google “sugar gradient maple” does the internet try to sell you wigs and quilting fabric?
Andy: Um . . . It’s you.
Old-fashioned lidded buckets pause for a photo-shoot before heading out into our sugarwoods for their annual stay.
You've decided to make maple syrup this year and you've determined that it's time to tap. Great!
As long as you've identified your maple trees (and any maple will do as long as it is at least 12 inches in diameter) all you need to do is get a hold of some simple tools and equipment, read these instructions, maybe watch our tapping video, and you are ready to go!
FIrst, you need a drill with a 7/16" or 5/16" bit. You can use a cordless power drill or a hand drill - also called a brace. The power drill has the advantage of being a lot faster, whereas the brace is more . . . romantic. . . . if you're into that sort of thing. The brace also has no carbon footprint! (For those of us not into romance.)
A regular bit will do, or you can invest in a "tapping bit," of either size. Our customers report that tapping bits are easier to use and make a nice, clean hole, but we've never used one. Tapping bits for cordless drills are widely available. Choose the bit size that matches the spiles you are going to use (see below).
Second, you need 7/16" or 5/16" spiles - also called "taps." Spiles are the spouts you hammer into the tree to direct the sap from the tree to the bucket or other sap-collection container of your choice.
New spiles are widely available in both sizes and come in metal and plastic. If you are in possession of used or even antique spiles, or looking for some (again with the romance!), chances are they are going to be of the larger size.
Every sugarmaker has an opinion about what size tap is best and whether to use plastic or metal spiles. Do research if you enjoy it, but the important thing is to just get started, so don't feel like you have to sweat the small stuff, here. This is supposed to be fun! Find some taps that are in your price range, and go for it!
You will need one spile per every tap you are going to make. A tree that is from 12 to 18 inches in diameter can support one tap. Trees larger than 18 inches in diameter can take two taps. Putting more than two taps in a tree is not recommended.
Third, you will need a hammer for tapping the spile into the tree after the hole is drilled.
And finally, you need lidded buckets or other food-safe containers such as clean plastic milk jugs attached to the spile with rope or wire, or food-safe plastic bags (widely available).
It is important to note that the old galvanized buckets may contain lead, and it is possible for lead to leach into your sap if sap is left in the bucket for long enough and temperatures are high enough. (Our family uses the old galvanized buckets and collects sap frequently.) New metal buckets are typically made of safer aluminum, there are plenty of plastic-bucket options, and there is even a bucket made of gray plastic on the market for those of you having a hard time weighing the factors of aesthetics, cost and function. (Brilliant!)
(If you'd like a head start on where to find stuff, check out our blogpost on that!)
Now that you have your stuff, you are going to proceed to your first tree and choose a height that is both convenient for the driller and collector. Choose a spot that is easy to drill at that moment, but also think about the current depth of the snow: is the collector going to have to reach over his or her head to collect the bucket when the snow melts?
Having settled on a height, inspect your tree. For best results, you should choose a place on the tree that is either below a big branch or above a big root, and definitely not near a knot or wound in the tree. Cardinal direction doesn't matter too much - every year you should tap at least 6" away from the prior year's tap anyway - but a southern tap will flow before a northern one, so do think about how you'd like to time your season. When you've chosen your spot, drill a hole of about 1 inch or so at a slight, upward angle and look for nice, light, creamy wood chips and sawdust coming out. If what you see is dark or dead, find another place on the tree to tap and try again.
When you have your hole, tap your spile in using your hammer, hang your bucket, and put on your lid. Move on to the rest of your sugarbush. Now it's time to wait for the sap to run!
Would you like to see it done? Here's a video featuring the inventor of the Sapling Evaporator tapping a tree in our sugarwoods.
The sap of the sugar maple runs when nighttime temperatures are freezing and daytime temperatures are not.
Finally! A question that's easy to answer. This is going to be a short blog post. Well . . .
Here are the basics. You aren't going to be able to collect sap from a maple tree until the sap starts running. Sap runs when nighttime temperatures are freezing and daytime temperatures are not. So when you tap is going to depend entirely on where you live - both in terms of geography and elevation - what the weather is doing that year, and thus when it is both cold enough and warm enough to create sap flow.
As you know, the climate is warming and weather patterns are changing, so the old rules-of-thumb are becoming less and less useful. For example, here in Central Vermont, Town Meeting Day (the first Tuesday in March) is when hill farmers would traditionally tap. For the last few decades, however, March has sometimes proved too late for us. These days, the professionals start early in the year, and us hobby farmers are likely to get ourselves out in the sugar woods by mid-February.
This year, some folks in Kentucky, Ohio, Virginia and West Virginia started tapping, collecting and even boiling during the week between Christmas and New Years! That's early by anybody's standards. By the end of January, however, the rest of the Southern Midwest and Mid-Atlantic - Missouri, Illinois, Indiana, Tennessee, North Carolina, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey and Pennsylvania - will likely have joined them. Southern New England and thereabouts - Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Southern New York and Connecticut - will follow. Like Vermont, in the Northern Midwest and in New England - Minnesota, Wisconsin, Northern New York, Vermont, Maine, and New Hampshire, folks typically don't tap until at least mid-February or even March. And we've got customers at certain elevations in upstate New York and in Canada, for example, who may wait until April! Oy!
The easiest way to get acclimated, if you are just starting out, is to pay attention to what other sugar makers are doing in your area. The forums on mapletrader, which are broken down by state, are a great resource for this. Or you could ask your local professional sugar maker and make a friend and ally in the process! But if you see that sweet steam rising in the neighborhood, that's a sure sign that it's time to get a move on.
Most sugar makers we've spoken to say that once the new year has passed, you can't tap too early, even if the sap is weeks away from flowing. There are detractors, of course, who say that a tree will close a wound early if tapped to early, such that you may miss some late-season flow. If, like most of us, you are a subsistence sugar maker who doesn't like to sweat the small stuff much (and isn't worrying about the return on investment for fancy equipment) just consider the above and find yourself a suitable weekend when it's convenient to get out there and take pleasure in the annual rite.
If you've identified your maple trees, everything else you need to know in order to make maple syrup in your backyard is here in its shortest form.
Sugaring season is drawing close. You want to start this year but you aren't sure you have time to figure it out and get your operation in order! It's almost February!
Not to fear. Here is the shortest guide to backyard sugaring ever made. You can DO it!
Step 1: Get Equipped
As long as you've identified your maple trees (and any maple will do as long as it is at least 12 inches in diameter) all you need to do is get a hold of some simple tools and equipment and you're ready for your first boil. The list of stuff you need is short:
For more about this stuff and where to acquire it go here.
Step 2: Tap
It depends on where in maple country you live and what the weather is doing. Sap runs when nighttime temperatures are freezing and daytime temperatures are not. So, right now our customers in the Southern Midwest and Mid-Atlantic - Illinois, Ohio, New Jersey and Pennsylvania - report that they are already tapping and collecting. In the Northern Midwest and in New England, however, we typically don't tap until at least mid-February and sometimes not until March. And we've got customers at certain elevations in upstate New York, for example, who have to wait until April! So pay attention to what the weather is doing and what other sugar makers are doing in your area. A great resource for the latter are the forums on mapletrader, which are broken down by state. Or you could ask your local sugar maker and make a friend and ally in the process.
How do you tap?
Easy. Learn here.
Step 3: Collect Sap
Monitor your sap containers daily so that the sap does not overflow or get to warm. When your containers are full, or when the sap is exposed to warm temperatures or direct sunlight, collect from the tree and store in snowbanks in the shade, a cool garage, or other naturally refrigerated place in 5 gallon buckets or other large food-grade container. Sap will keep for a week or so at refrigerated temperatures. It is OK for sap to freeze. In fact, some of us throw out the ice chunks on the theory that it's just water. And it's OK for you to mix the sap from different maple trees together. It all tastes the same.
Step 4: Boil
When you have time to boil, boil! This is going to take a while, so either start as early as possible in the evening and know you aren't sleeping much that night, or, better yet, choose a day when you would be home anyway.
Exactly how this goes will depend on your arch. If you have a continuous-flow pan, like the Sapling Pan or the Seedling Pan, you will flood the pan with sap that you've strained through your cheesecloth, start your fire, and continuously pour sap into the entry point. And wait. You should be able to make 1 or 2 gallons of syrup in a 10-hour day with our products.
If you have a series of flat pans, you will flood all pans with strained sap, start your fire, and consolidate the boil into one pan as the levels in all pans reduce, leaving pan(s) open for new sap to be processed. And wait even longer.
If you have one flat pan, you will flood the pan with strained sap, start your fire, and occasionally fill the pan back up again with sap. And wait the longest of them all.
Regardless of your getup, you will measure the temperature (with thermometer) or sugar content (with hydrometer) of your boil at the exit point or final boiling pan, and pour-off/dump-out syrup when it measures 219 degrees F or 66 brix. OR you can also just dip a spoon or spatula into the boil, and observe how it behaves coming off the utensil and/or on to a cold plate. Syrup is said to "apron" off a spoon, and acts like syrup as it cools on your plate. Sap doesn't. It acts more like water in both scenarios.
Step 5: Filter and Store
Filter your syrup right away, pour immediately into food-safe containers, and invert the container briefly to sterilize the inside of the lid. If done quickly enough, this is all the canning process you need to keep syrup safely in a cool, dark place for two years! For more detail on safe canning, see here.
Need more help? Or prefer a guide you can hang onto in the woods? We recommend Maple Sugaring at Home, by Tap My Trees, available here. It's affordable, easy to use, and covers the basics in more detail.
Have fun and keep in touch!
)'Twas the Friday before Christmas and all through the shop,
machinery was whirring, with a chug, clang, and pop!
The product was nestled and shelved with great care,
in the knowledge that new owners soon would be there.
And this mamma-CEO, whose energy was sapped,
had just settled down for an above-desk nap.
When, out in the parking lot, there arose such a clatter,
I sprang from the "boardroom" to see what was a'matter.
Away to the freight door, I flew in a jolt,
and threw it overhead by loosening the bolt!
(The rain on the crest of the dirty, old snow,
gave the luster of sap season to the landscape below.)
When, what to my wondering eyes should appear,
but a big eighteen-wheeler, license plate: RND-EER!
With a little old driver, so lively and quick,
I knew in a moment it must be St. Nick.
More rapid than eagles his orders they came,
and he whistled and shouted and called them by name:
"Six Saplings, ten Warmers, a dozen Grill Covers,
some Grill Grates, a Smoker, and a Seedling (for mother);
"some touch-up paint, a few gift cards, and a big, red bow!
Here, I'll help you load up, so we can all go!"
We spoke not a word, but went straight to our work.
We filled that big truck, then Clause turned with a jerk.
"The sap will flow well this year," he said.
(Which gave me to know, we have nothing to dread!)
He sprang to his seat, gave the teamsters a whistle,
and flew down the drive, like the down of a thistle.
But I heard him exclaim, 'ere he turned onto Rte. 2:
"Merry Christmas to All, and a Happy New Year too!"
Back by popular demand! For the month of December, Sapling Evaporators come "gift wrapped" with a big red bow!
The hubbub of Thanksgiving has passed and you are looking forward to the gift-giving part of the holiday season! (Or, maybe not, but you're still participating in it. It happens. Might as well do it up.) You have an actual or aspiring backyard sugar maker in the family, and you would like to get them something they can use for their hobby maple syrup operation.
You are in luck! Here's why. First, sugaring season comes swiftly on the heels of the holiday gift-giving season. So, unlike that trowel set/pressure canner/hunting rifle you've been eyeing for the same person, backyard sugar making tools can be used shortly after they are opened!
Second, buying for the backyard sugar maker does not have to be expensive. Rather, the tools you need are simple, easy to find, and cover a variety of price points. There are bulky, big ticket items, to be sure, but also plenty of smallish, down-ticket items appropriate for . . . say . . . eight gift-giving nights in a row. . . a stocking, or . . . a package with postage that doesn't break the bank!
Oh, but you don't know anything about sugaring? Or you don't know much? No biggie. Got you covered. Breathe. First of all, remember gift certificates. Second, include a gift receipt. Third, just get educated. Let's dive in.
First off, decide what category your gift recipient falls into. Are they (1) an aspiring sugar maker, or (2) an amateur who has made maple syrup on their stove / grill / other self-fabricated outside contraption. Knowing the answer to this question is important, as you will see.
The list of things any amateur sugar maker needs is short and as follows:
If any of those items reached out and grabbed you already, awesome! We've reviewed six online stores where you can purchase the supplies here, and you can find our product line here.
Otherwise, here are some recommendations:
For the Aspiring Sugar Maker
The aspiring sugar maker has always wanted to make maple syrup but hasn't pulled the trigger yet.
Awesome! For the modestly adventurous, consider a starter kit like this one, which comes with some how-to guidance. You could also spend less (or get enough to tap something more than three trees) by sourcing the same or similar stuff elsewhere and reading the shortest guide to maple sugaring ever (written by yours truly). Consider throwing in a couple of food-safe 5-gallon buckets, a syrup filter and pre-filter, and a case of half-pint mason jars for the complete package.
A Seedling Urban Evaporator over a cinder block fire (either wood or propane via a turkey fryer base or the like) would be an appropriate pan for as little as a three-tree operation. And, bonus: any purchase from us allows you access to the (unofficial) Vermont Evaporator Company Sugaring Hotline (my cell phone), which, my customers can tell you, is open at all times of the day and night for sugaring urgencies and emergencies!
If your aspiring sugar maker is moderately to highly adventurous, consider outfitting them for a ten-tap start instead (a drill and/or bit, ten buckets, ten spiles, cheesecloth, pre-filter, filter). There are several stand-alone, how-to guides out there, but also plenty of similar information becoming available on the internet.
A Sapling Evaporator Pan over a home-made wood-box, or a Sapling Evaporator will come in handy for a ten-tap operation.
For the Amateur Sugar Maker
More even than an aspirant, though, the actual-already-amateur sugar maker will appreciate a "real" pan or rig. As your budget allows, consider upgrading your loved one from that bucket-over-an-open-fire, broiling-pan-on-the-grill, inside-the-house operation by maybe adding to their bucket-and-spile collection (be sure to confirm that they have more trees to tap!) and springing for a new pan. The Seedling Urban Evaporator ($295) for up to ten taps, the Sapling Evaporator Pan ($315) or Sapling Evaporator ($895) for five to fifty taps.
Looking for something more modestly priced? How about some fancy syrup containers for their next harvest, or a good maple read (I can not recommend The Maple Sugar Book often enough) for off-season reflection on a favorite hobby? Or - in the category of boring but important - consider a 55 gallon sap storage container, handy for storing sap between weekend boils.
The first chapter in the history of maple syrup is a uniquely Native North American one.
First there were historic midterm elections, and then I turned 40. (Nope! Not unrelated! My mother and father voted on the way to the delivery room.) Then there was the one hundredth anniversary of the end of World War I---Armistice Day---and yesterday was Veteran's Day. We're just about to celebrate Thanksgiving, and, all the while, November is National Native American Heritage Month. I guess you could say that, with this year's change in the weather (read: annual slowing down), there's been more than the usual amount of reflection going on over here.
And that's as it should be. My election-related birth-story aside, each of these commemorations honor different bits and pieces of our familial lore. A woolen vest that my maternal great grandmother (pictured seated below) knitted for my great grandfather during World War I hangs in my closet; he lied about his age and enlisted in the Army at 16. I sit beside a framed picture of my paternal grandmother preparing to fly a domestic supply plane while my grandfather was half-a-world away in a helicopter bound for the eastern front (and while my husband's grandfather commanded a tank on the western front) of World War II. A cousin on one side manned a Navy submarine during the cold war, and an uncle on the other was there with the Coast Guard when the wall fell, marking the end of it.
I will be the queen of pie again at Thanksgiving this year, bringing the traditional trifecta of pumpkin, apple and pecan to the table. My mother will do the cranberry bread and cranberry preserves, the sweet relish and pickles (all family recipes) and my mother-in-law one bird, the gravy, and the stuffing. (My husband will smoke the other on our Sapling!) I will rely on my father, as usual, for his signature green bean (amandine) and broccoli (polonaise) dishes. And somehow, in the chaos of so many cooks, I'll manage a skin-on mashed red potato with parsley and a "squished squash"---the unadulterated butternut dish of my childhood. We'll rely upon a local bakery for the rolls. Sigh. I can't wait!
Until last year, though, I didn't even know November held another occasion for slowing down and reflecting: National Native American Heritage Month. And now that we're several years into running a business manufacturing equipment for backyard maple sugar makers, it seems a good time to pause, remember, and give thanks for how open-air sugar making got its start many hundreds (thousands) of years ago here among the native peoples of North America.
Corn, beans, cotton, tobacco and maple are all crops first developed by the Americans. Unlike with the first four products, there were a handful of prominent European immigrants who purported to take credit for the discovery of maple syrup or maple sugar (we'll call out a certain Jesuit Priest, P.F.X. Charlevoix, on the latter). However, history and common sense weigh heavily against these lonely historical voices. Rather, European writings overwhelmingly describe the processing of maple as a traditional activity engaged in by tribes covering a vast geography of present day United States and Canada, with the language, customs and legends you might expect to attend to any practice of cultural importance.
Contemporaneous European writings indicate that maple sugar making was an activity widely engaged in across the continent among tribes that lived---at least at the time Europeans made landfall---across and even slightly beyond present-day sugar country. To appreciate this geographical scope, note the traditional territories of the Abenaki, Algonquin, Chippewa, Cree, Housatunnuk, Iowa, Iroquois, Kansa, Kickapoo, Menomini, Ojibwe, Omaha, Osage, Ponka, Tuscarora and Winnebago peoples---all of which are among those mentioned in European writings about maple---on this awesome map.
Native American words for maple are interesting too. Algonquins call maple sugar sinzibuckwud (drawn from wood), while the Tuscarora, Omaha/Ponka words for sugar - urenakri and janija - mean, simply "tree sap" (likewise, the Winnebago tanijura niju means "wood water" or "wood rain"). Like present day sugar makers, the Americans appreciated the difference between a maple tree generally---ninautik (Ojibwe for "our own tree")---and the sugar maple, sheesheegummawis (Ojibwe for "sap flows fast") too.
Far from being decried as "the cruelest month(s)," however, many Americans celebrated March or March and April as the "sugar moon," and European accounts of the ceremony, dance, feasting and revelry that attended what we now call "sap season," "boil-off season," or "maple syrup time" abound. (This, perhaps, should come as no surprise, as at least one European immigrant noted that maple sugar sometimes functioned as a stopgap against famine here in the early spring months.) According to European writings, an Ojibwe custom involved a tribal leader mixing together maple sugar from the prior year's harvest with the first grains produced in the present year to kickoff an annual feast, for example. And several tribes recounted to Europeans legends explaining the origins of maple---one as the unintended consequence of cooking with sap instead of water in order to save an arduous trip to the river, and another involving a divine being watering down what used to flow out of the tree as syrup as an instruction in proper work ethic (or rebuke for the lack of same).
The way the Americans made maple sugar, however, will sound quite familiar to the backyard sugar makers of today. As was common among the descendants of European (and other) immigrants up until just half-a-century ago, Americans typically set-out to live in a camp nearer to the family's sugar stand when the sap began to flow. In a number of traditions, the camps belonged to the women and were passed down matrilineally. Unlike today, where practices vary, it was predominately the women of the family who ran the sugaring show, with the aid of children and youth (and, less often, or for specific tasks, grown men). They made bark sap buckets, bark buckets for transportation and storage of sap, "tapped" the tree with a gash and a wooden chip, and oversaw the boiling itself, which, until Europeans brought and traded metal cookware, took place in hollowed out logs into which were placed hot rocks. Like we do today, the Americans were known to throw the ice off of the top of a sap or sap-storage bucket to concentrate the sugars (it is officially not cheating!), and even store sap in large shallow pans to produce more ice (nature's reverse osmosis!) to drink the sap, eat fresh syrup and maple toffee (present day "sugar on snow") during the boil, and make gifts of their maple bounty (typically by pouring almost-sugar into carved wooden molds of animals, birds, people, celestial bodies and more)!
Because of the non-existence (or, after European arrival, scarcity) of glass and metal, however, the bulk of the American maple crop was made all the way into sugar and packed into bark baskets for transportation and year-round storage. This was done, as it is today, by continuing to boil past the sugar and toffee stages, and by stirring constantly until crystallization occurred. (Apparently, the Americans' maple sugar lumps, like mine, sometimes needed a good whacking in order to resemble sugar. Which is also nice to hear.)
Americans ate maple products on their own (see above) but also relied upon it, in the same way Europeans relied on salt, to season their food. By way of example, European immigrants recorded eating corn porridge sweetened with maple sugar, rice, nut and fruit dishes seasoned with maple sugar, and dipping sauces made from maple sugar and bear fat on dry or cooked venison. American mothers were said to give their children small baskets containing sugar from the year's first sap run, and lumps of sugar throughout the year when quiet behavior was unattainable using other methods. (Thus vindicating many a modern-day parenting style!)
There's much more, of course, than what I've related here. If you are interested, pick up this book as a start. I'm looking forward to relating more to you during next year's observation of National Native American Heritage Month. Until then, enjoy the annual slowing down, travel safe and enjoy your loved ones this holiday season.
Together in Maple!
This blogger's heritage is also North American! I am pictured here with my matriline, which traces back to the Mi'kmaq, a native people of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Quebec, Newfoundland and Maine. The Mi'kmaq word for the month of March translates to "Maple Sugar Moon." We've long since lost our ties to this branch of the family, but I guess you could still say we've got maple syrup in the blood!
On Teaspoon of Sugar, we write about maple sugaring, maple syrup, starting and running a small business, and living the sweet life here in beautiful, downtown Montpelier, Vermont.