Like shiny things? This season's Sapling Evaporator, in stock now, is a classic, flat black with stainless evaporator pan and accents. Making maple syrup in your backyard has never been this easy OR attractive!
You are seriously thinking about buying a Sapling Evaporator, but you have a few questions. Chances are, the answers are below!
What's the lead-time on a Sapling Evaporator?
None! Our stock is holding out well, and we're busy manufacturing more at a good clip. We work every day during the season, so orders are generally shipped or made available for pickup the next business day after an order is placed.
How does the Sapling Evaporator ship?
The Sapling ships in a big box via UPS.
How long does it take to ship a Sapling to zipcode _ _ _ _ _?
UPS estimates place all of sugar country within one to three days of us. except for the farthest reaches of Maine, New England destinations are one day away, as are eastern and central New York. Western New York and the New York City area, as well as Pennsylvania, Ohio, West Virginia New Jersey, Delaware and Maryland are two-day destinations. It takes three days to get a Sapling to Kentucky, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, Wisconsin, Minnesota and Iowa.
How much does it cost to ship a Sapling to zipcode _ _ _ _ _?
We ship Saplings anywhere in the U.S. for $150, flat.
May I come pick up my Sapling instead?
Sure thing! You can pick up your Sapling, by appointment, for free!
When may I pick up my Sapling?
Our facility is generally open for pickups-by-appointment from 9-5 during the week. If that doesn't work for you, we'll find a weekend time that does. Shortly after you place your order, we will be in touch with you to schedule a pickup. Rushing is not the Vermont way. As such, we're happy to hold your Sapling for you while you plan your trip to Montpelier, an excellent day-trip destination (activity and restaurant recommendations available upon request)!
What is the best way to place my order?
Online! And thanks for asking. We're a small operation, so placing your order on our website helps us stay organized and avoid mistakes.
How many taps will the Sapling handle?
We recommend the Sapling for operations ranging from 5-50 taps for customers who anticipate saving sap up for occasional boils (e.g., weekends or days off from work). Customers who are able to boil whenever the sap flows should be able to handle up to 100 taps. The Sapling is not recommended for operations bigger than 100 taps.
How many gallons per hour can I evaporate on the Sapling?
We have measured everything from 4 to 8 gallons of evaporation per hour on our Sapling. The speed of your boil will depend on many things, including: the temperature outside, whether it is precipitating, the heat of your fire, your level of attention and skill and whether you are using the Sapling Warming Pan or other warming situation of your own invention.
Does the Sapling come assembled?
Almost completely! All new Sapling owners must install the stack and ball valve. That involves six self-tapping screws, pipe tape (provided) and opposable thumbs (BYO). Saplings that are shipped will also need to have their legs attached with the bolts, nuts and lock washers provided. Directions come with and are also here.
What tools should I have on hand for assembly?
A power-drill with Philips-head attachment installed should do it. A note for the apocalypse: it is possible to assemble a Sapling with nothing but a Philips-head screwdriver, but it's not fun. Self-tapping screws don't require drilling---although some folks prefer to pre-drill---but do pair well with power tools.
Is the Sapling portable?
Yes! The Sapling is light enough for one or two people to move it around easily (see below) and even comes with threaded holes on each foot for the intrepid customer who wishes to install casters for locomotion around easy terrain. (Hint: get the ones with breaks - you need to be able to level your unit).
How heavy is the Sapling?
All assembled, the Sapling is about 90 lbs. The heaviest part (the barrel with legs and door installed) is about 50 lbs.
What are the dimensions of the Sapling?
People usually ask because they are wondering if it will fit in their car. The answer is yes! We once fit a Sapling Evaporator in a Toyota Corolla! (We had to take it apart.) The partially-assembled Sapling will fit in any SUV or truck bed.
The Sapling ships in a box that is 38 x 25 x 27 (L x W x H). With legs at pickup, it's about 33 x 23 x 29 (L x W x H).
If you need more detail than this because you are installing your Sapling in an outbuilding, please be in touch!
What kind of outfitting does the Sapling require?
Besides sap, the only thing you absolutely need to bring to your Sapling is an inch or two of sand or ash to be placed on the bottom of your barrel (to protect the metal from the hottest part of your fire).
Should I firebrick my Sapling?
This is a matter of personal choice. The benefits are heat retention and added protection for your barrel. The downside is a smaller firebox. There is such a thing as half-brick, which basically splits the difference. If you are curious about how to lay your brick in your barrel, you can watch us do it here.
Can I install my Sapling in a sugar house?
Provided you consult your local fire warden and do it safely, yes! While the Sapling was designed for outdoor use, we have many customers who have installed their Saplings inside a shack or other outbuilding.
What kind of wood should I burn in the Sapling?
Opinions vary about what kind of wood is best, but the truth is that most people just burn what is available at little or no cost. We like a mixture of hard and soft, ourselves. Your wood should be split a time or two more than you would split it for use in your wood stove so that it about the width of your arm. Best to keep the lengths to two feet or below.
How much wood do I need?
It's a hard question to answer without knowing what kind of wood you are burning, but, by way of a ballpark, we suggest 1/2 cord of wood per every 5 gallons of syrup produced.
I don't have that much; where can I find inexpensive wood?
Check with a local hardware store or lumber mill. Very often, outfits that sell lumber will have or know where you can get inexpensive wood called "slag" wood - the bark edges of trees cut for lumber. You can also use old pallets, clean construction extras, or dry fallen wood. For a complete discussion on sugar wood, go here.
Can I get to finished syrup on the Sapling or will I need to finish on a separate pan?
While the experienced and the brave make it to finished syrup on the Sapling, most of us amateur sugar makers pour-off when we are very close (for us, it's usually about 2:1), and reduce the rest of the way on propane nearby or inside on the kitchen stove.
At Vermont Evaporator Company, all our hobby maple-sugar-makers feature "baffled" or "continuous flow" pans, because it makes sugaring more efficient, even in the backyard. But why?
You know what a continuous-flow pan is, but do you know why it's better for sugaring than a flat pan?
To address this question, I asked Expert-of-Sorts, Andy Boutin, General Manager of Pellergy, and, conveniently, co-lessor of 157 Pioneer Center, Suite 1. As Andy was moving stuff around our shared warehouse, I shouted questions at him, and he shouted back, pausing every once in a while to draw me a diagram. Here’s how our high-volume conversation went:
Kate: People want to know why continuous-flow evaporators are more efficient than evaporating on a flat pan. I gather the answer lies in understanding a principle of physics called a “gradient.” I’m trying to figure out what a gradient is, what it has to do with sugaring, and how a continuous-flow evaporator exploits that principle to make more syrup in less time. Can you help?
Kate: Wait. What did you study again?
Andy: Marine Engineering and Naval Architecture.
Kate: Hmm. But that involved a lot of Physics classes, right?
Andy: Yes. There’s a lot of fluid dynamics in that education, with ships and man submersibles traveling through water at different densities. It’s relatable.
Kate: Sold! Why is a continuous-flow pan better for sugaring than a flat pan and what does it have to do with the “gradient.” According to Lord Google, gradient is defined as “an increase or decrease in the magnitude of a property (e.g., temperature, pressure, or concentration) observed in passing from one point or moment to another.” What does that have to do with the price of syrup?
Andy: Lord Google is correct, of course, but that's not how I would explain it. Let’s back up.
Gradient is “physics” for as you move through space or time, something that can be measured changes gradually over the course of that distance. So, on a hot summer day, in a house with no internal doors (or doors that are open), if you climb the stairs from the basement to the first floor, the first floor to the second floor, and the second floor to the attic, you travel through a temperature gradient. A gradient is a gentle slope, not a cliff, and is not the result of a physical barrier. So, when, on that same hot summer day, you cross the street and open a door to a nice, cool, air-conditioned house, you are not travelling through a temperature gradient – the change is not gradual and is the result of a physical barrier.
There are a number of gradients at play when sugaring, but probably the most important one for purposes of this discussion is the density gradient that results from changes in sugar concentration as water evaporates and sap turns to syrup.
Kate: OK, I’m with you. Are there density gradients no matter how you sugar?
Andy: Yes. But they don’t operate the same way in every pan. Envision a flat pan the same dimensions as the Sapling Evaporator Pan---20” x 30”---but with no baffles. Think about the pathway from sap to syrup in that pan. Put the sap in. Start the fire. Water boils off. You add more sap. Now you have a density gradient: the denser liquid is at the bottom of the pan and the less-dense liquid is at the top of the pan. Every time you add sap, that density gradient forms (and, by the way, you kill your boil). So you have to keep boiling and boiling until the entire pan is the same density, and then you draw it all off. That’s the batch process. The gradient works against you, not for you, when you batch.
The concentration gradient works FOR you in a continuous-flow pan, both in terms of efficiency and quality. Now take the actual Sapling Evaporator Pan---20” x 30” with two baffles---and what you have is a pan that operates as if it is a 10” x 60” pan, squashed over the firebox. Now: put the sap in, start the fire, water boils off, you add more sap to one end of the pan only, and you’ve rearranged the gradient into a flowing river, where the less dense liquid pushes the denser liquid toward the pour-off, instead of a stagnant pond with muck settling at the bottom.
Kate: That’s quite a visual. Thanks. And there are efficiency gains as well as quality gains, you say?
Andy: Yes. In the flat pan, the gradient is only as long as the pan is deep, with a baffled pan, the gradient is as long as the different channels all stretched out. The efficiency is in the continuous flow that the latter gradient arrangement allows for – there’s no time-killing start and stop to your boil. The quality gains are that when you do draw off, you are able to take off only one density of syrup, even while other densities exist in the pan simultaneously.
Kate: One last question. Is it just me, or when you Google “sugar gradient maple” does the internet try to sell you wigs and quilting fabric?
Andy: Um . . . It’s you.
On Teaspoon of Sugar, we write about maple sugaring, maple syrup, starting and running a small business, and living the sweet life here in beautiful, downtown Montpelier, Vermont.